"Hats are a passport to another world," declares Stephen Jones, the greatest milliner of his generation. Catherine St Germans considers his show of fanciful headgear at the V&A ...
In the 1930s, when the great French milliner Simone Mirman was at work, it was said there were almost as many hat shops in Paris as cafés. Mirman, who moved to England just before the second world war, created hats for Christian Dior, and was granted a royal warrant by the then Queen (later the Queen Mother). When Queen Elizabeth II assumed the throne, Mirman became her most important milliner and was granted a warrant by her too. Her most memorable royal commission was the hat that the Queen wore to the Prince of Wales’s investiture in 1969, her take on an early Tudor head-dress.
She was said to have been milliner to the last generation of women who would not contemplate leaving the house without a hat: a generation who considered their hat to be of equal consequence to their choice of stockings, shoes or handbag. Women who would say: “A hat makes all the difference.” Which is exactly the opposite to my generation, and goes some way to explaining why, when Mirman died, in August, aged 96, her name was no longer widely known.
Stephen Jones told me about Simone Mirman. Jones, who is 51, is the greatest milliner of his generation. He was the first English milliner to work for a French fashion house, and has also made hats for John Galliano at Christian Dior for the past decade and for Galliano’s own label for over 15 years. He has collaborated with every designer of note and is currently making hats for, among others, Marc Jacobs and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. When Carla Bruni caused a sensation on a state visit to London last March, wearing a grey suit with a tiny, triangular pillbox hat gracefully perched on the side of her head, her headpiece was from Dior, designed by the remarkable Mr Jones......
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